"Not only is the universe stranger than what we imagine,
it is stranger than what we can imagine."
Sir Arthur Eddington

A Hop, Skip, and Jump

After the Hop from Trinidad to Carriacou that was written about previously, we stayed in Carriacou only a few days. We were there to say our condolences and farewell to our cruising friend Liz on Moosetracks, anchored in Tyrrel Bay. Her husband Devin passed away suddenly on their boat a few weeks ago. They have been cruising for the last number of years. We first met them in Georgetown, in the Bahamas and traveled with them and crossed paths many times, including road trips here in the islands. We were saddened by the shocking news and made a point of being able to see her before she left. Devin and Liz were a great fun-loving British couple, younger than us, who loved sailing, diving, hiking and socializing. She will fly back to Florida while other cruiser friends will sail Moosetracks back to Florida to be sold. Sadly, life can change suddenly without warning.


The home of "Death in Paradise"
The home of "Death in Paradise"

Fair winds before the squalls
Fair winds before the squalls


After sailing from Carriacou we skipped over to Bequia then Rodney Bay, St. Lucia and then to St. Anne, Martinique, stopping only to sleep at anchor (and French food and wine). From St. Anne we took the 30 hour jump to Antigua. The winds were fine for sailing, except for the expected wind shadows beind Martinique, Dominica and Guadeloupe. Once north of Guadeloupe the last six hours to Antigua are in open waters. By this time numerous squalls were forecasted along with moderate Trade Winds. The squalls were not that moderate as they packed winds of over 30 knots. The seas with 18kt Trades produce long 8’ swell and the localized squalls generate 4’-5’ short chop. The combined effect of these make for an uncomfortable ride! Most swells were on the beam while the chop was from various directions. The warning of unpredictable trajectories of loose missiles inside Kalunamoo was fulfilled.

Unfortunately, during one 30 plus knot squall a long tear ripped in the reefed mainsail. We dropped it and proceeded under stay sail and motor into Falmouth harbor, Antigua. Yes, there is a sail loft here for repairs. It seems that the last few times here, Kalunamoo always needs repair (anchor windlass, boom welding etc.). Fix’n boats again!

We will be Antigua for a month before flying back to New York for Christmas. The Salty Dawg rally boats are due in next week. That is why we took the hop, skip and jump to be here with them. They are delayed as the weather we had yesterday is part of a developing tropical wave that will impede their way south. All we can think about is that we only had six hours of challenging (!) sailing rather than the 11 days from the U.S. But it is a reminder that on any voyage off shore you must be prepared to face a hostile Mother Nature. On the other hand, with just a hop, skip and jump you can circle the world.      

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